Food & Wine

AVA Wines of Sonoma County: Sonoma Mountain Wine Region

Benziger Winery in Glen Ellen, California

Few Sonoma County wine regions are so singularly determined by elevation, exposure, and geographical feature as Sonoma Mountain American Viticulture Area (AVA).

When viewed from the west, Sonoma Mountain isn’t a particularly dramatic peak. Comprised of a lumpy series of hills piled on top of each other, briefly green and mostly golden and dotted with groves of live oak, its western flank meets cool winds and fog from the Petaluma Gap. Wineries pay a premium for the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah that manages to ripen here.

Vineyards in the sunshine at Jack London State Historic Park — Jack London State Historic Park, set within the Sonoma Mountain AVA

But just on the other side, you might think you’re looking at a different mountain: forested, rugged, darkly looming over the Valley of the Moon.

Author Jack London made his home in this region, of which he wrote, “The air is wine. The grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame. Across Sonoma Mountain, wisps of sea fog are stealing. The afternoon sun smolders in the drowsy sky. I have everything to make me glad I am alive.”

The Sonoma Mountain AVA contains 800 vineyard acres and was recognized with AVA status in 1985.

Top Grapes & Wine Varietals

The fact that both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir thrive near each other on Sonoma Mountain is no accident of misplaced enthusiasm on the part of farmers—it’s a testament to the complex interplay of topography, sun and wind exposure on the mountain’s slopes. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Syrah are also grown here; there’s even a little Grenache and Grüner Veltliner to be found.

The Lay of the Land

The Sonoma Mountain AVA is located within the northwest area of the greater Sonoma Valley appellation. One of the earlier AVAs to be determined by specific elevation rather than the broad outlines of a valley, the appellation occupies elevations between 400 and 1,200 feet, and only on the north and eastern slopes of Sonoma Mountain.

Coturri vineyard in spring with flowering cover crops in Glen Ellen

Overlapping the Bennett Valley AVA on the northwestern end, the cooling influence of the Petaluma Gap enhances Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Much of the Cabernet is grown on the fog-sheltered eastern side of the mountain — sunny, warm, but facing the morning, not the evening sun. Most vineyards on Sonoma Mountain are not contiguous, instead being isolated amid woods and grazing land.

Notable Wineries

Benziger Family Winery

Benziger Family Winery is the leading wine-tasting attraction on Sonoma Mountain. Their estate is a model of Biodynamic farming practices, designed to function as its ecosystem of plants, animals, and healthy soil. Benziger’s Tribute and Solstice blends typify their mountain-grown Cabernet-based wines.

Kenwood Vineyards

Just up the road, Kenwood Vineyards has had a long relationship with the Jack London Vineyard, located on California author Jack London’s original Beauty Ranch and operated by his heirs. Established in 1970 in the former Pagani Brothers Winery, this winery’s historic cellar dates back to 1906 and is dedicated to producing premium wines truly representative of Sonoma County’s world-class vineyards.

Tasting room interior at Laurel Glen Vineyard — Laurel Glen Vineyard in Glen Ellen

Laurel Glen Vineyards

Laurel Glen Vineyard is another noted producer of Sonoma Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, while much of the area’s top product is released by wineries outside of the appellation. Look for vineyard names like Van der Kamp, Richard Dinner, Steiner, Jewell, Kistler, and Pickberry.

Backroad Bodegas

Coturri Winery vineyard on Sonoma Mountain

Leading organic grape growers Coturri Winery may be out of the way, but their wines are worth seeking out. GlenLyon Vineyards & Winery also makes Syrah, as well as Cabernet.

Restaurants and Lodging around Sonoma Mountain

At the base of Sonoma Mountain, the hamlet of Glen Ellen offers the best amenities in the area.

Les Pascals Patisserie in Glen Ellen — Les Pascals in Glen Ellen

Where to Eat

Start the morning with coffee and croissants, quiche, or other delicious goodies at the French pâtisserie in the heart of Glen Ellen, Les Pascals. If you’re looking for high-quality meats, fresh produce, fine wine, gourmet groceries, household staples, or natural health and beauty aids, consult with Glen Ellen Village Market, then bring your spoils to Jack London State Historic Park where you can enjoy the natural beauty of the place Jack London once called home.

Fairy-lit courtyard at the Olea Hotel in Sonoma County's Glen Ellen — Olea Hotel, Glen Ellen

Where to Stay

The Glen Ellen Inn Secret Cottages offers 7 cottages that are hidden away near the Calabasas Creek, each with its own fireplace, hot tub, shower, TV, fruit & pastry basket, in-room coffee, and honor bar. The Olea Hotel is situated along the hillside of Sonoma Valley of Glen Ellen, an elegant boutique hotel that is an adult-only retreat attracting wine enthusiasts from all over the country. The Gaige House offers a verdant, secluded setting along the Calabaza Creek with eight new Zen suites featuring granite soaking tubs and private Japanese gardens.

Written by Sonoma Insider James Knight